Baltics

Welcome to “The Baltics – Overcoming Occupation”

“The summer of 2015 took me to the relatively unknown Baltic region of Earth. Having travelled through former Soviet states in Central Asia, I was curious to explore a different area that had been under Moscow’s iron rule.

In the Baltics, there is no doubt of current regimes versus past. The region comprised of Lithuania (Vilnius), Latvia (Riga), and Estonia (Tallinn) have the unenviable position of being in a strategically valuable location on a map. A location that lies between two of the most historically aggressive countries on earth - Russia and Germany. The past 800 years have been like a see-saw between empires including Teutonic Knights, Tsarist Empires, Nazis, and most recently the Soviets.

Even though one has a tendency to lump these three nations together, they each offer a distinct culture and people. A unique instance of solidarity occurred on August 23, 1989, which was the fiftieth anniversary of the “non-aggression” Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact that secretly carved up Eastern Europe between Germany and Russia. On that day in 1989, an estimated two million people joined hands stretching out a human chain 675 km between the capitals of Tallinn to Vilnius. Coined “The Baltic Way” it exhibited to the world a Baltic region united and ready for their independence as the Soviet Union dissolved into ashes.

My itinerary was a mix of UNESCO old city centres to the remote agrarian countryside. It facilitated a perfect mix of 14th-century castles, windmills, museums, and lighthouses, sprinkled with culinary delights such as pig ears, beetroot soup, potatoes in every type of dish conceivable and thankfully lots of fresh seasonal fruit and fish to dot one’s plate.

Always seeking to find a taste of the “real” country I am travelling through, as I drove along the roads there were many signs of a past had been forced upon the Baltic population. Whether it was the ruins of former Soviet collective farmsteads or memorials from the Nazi occupation, the one constant was the people’s ability to overcome. I stumbled onto festivals and markets that demonstrated the pride, hospitality, and kindliness of the people.

Since all three countries are now proud NATO and EU members, travel and commerce between them is seamless. The images featured in this collection are a small sampling of the diverse and abundant life found in the region’s countryside. Enjoy!


Safe journeys.
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  • "View", Riga, Latvia

    "View", Riga, Latvia

    The top of St. Peter’s Church in the Latvian capital city offers many spectacular views of Riga’s eclectic architecture. Out of the three Baltic capitals, I found this one to be the most compelling. Playing host to the world’s largest collection of art nouveau buildings, simply walking the streets offers a smorgasbord of style, color and history.

  • "Pedal" - Karosta, Latvia

    "Pedal" - Karosta, Latvia

    In the summer of 1901, Russian Tsar Nicholas II engaged in the placement of the foundation stone for what became the Orthodox Cathedral of St Nicholas. Being a naval base, during the Soviet era, Karosta was closed to public access. The cathedral was “modified” to host movies, social and sporting events. With the fall of the Iron Curtain, Karosta went into a state of disrepair until recently. With sprawling Soviet block houses, a former prison, a Nazi extermination site, and a coastline of Tsar era fortifications falling into the sea, the area is a cache of history that unfolds before one’s very eyes.

  • "Seafaring" - Curonian Spit, Lithuania

    "Seafaring" - Curonian Spit, Lithuania

    Nestled in reforested trees that hold the sand in place under one’s feet are found the most charming, colorful, dollhouse-like homes that edge the shoreline of the Curonian Lagoon. Over 60 miles in length and ranging from less than 0.5 miles to 4 miles wide and heights of 230 feet, this narrow spit of sand is shared between Lithuania and Russia’s Kaliningrad. With the harsh Baltic Sea to the west and the tranquillity of the lagoon to the east, the long-time inhabitants have forged out of living directly from the sea or by working in the amber harvesting trade.

  • "Row" - Trakai Island Castle, Lithuania

    "Row" - Trakai Island Castle, Lithuania

    Construction in the late 14th century commenced on the Trakai Castle. The area was the heart of power for the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. However, after the Battle of Grunwald and the defeat of the Teutonic Knights, the need for such a medieval stronghold diminished. After becoming a residence to Lithuanian Grand Dukes and then a prison, the walls started to crumble, and the castle fell into disrepair. The Nazi occupation in the 1940’s started the reconstruction with the Soviets completing it in the 1960’s. The façade you see today provides a wonderful backdrop for photos and contributes to a lovely afternoon in the Lithuanian countryside.

  • "Fairy" - Kuldiga, Latvia

    "Fairy" - Kuldiga, Latvia

    Sometimes when exploring, a scene unfolds before your eyes that takes you back in time to childhood dreams found only in fairy tale lands. The guide book called Kuldīga the most “provincial” town in the Baltics. Even though it was a slight diversion on my route to Riga from Liepaja, I was in no rush and was curious as to what defined “provincial’. Imagine my delight to discover this charming town. A summertime street festival was underway that further enhanced my stopover. Twenty-first century exploring at its finest!

  • "Power" - Saaremaa Island, Estonia

    "Power" - Saaremaa Island, Estonia

    Straddling a small hilltop, the five windmills of Angla take the traveller back in time to days less hectic. Around 100 years of age, the remaining wind-powered grinders, at one time numbered nine with only thirteen houses in the community. Today’s Angla features a local history museum and the standard fare of tourist distractions. Personally, I found all I needed while walking through the wheat fields, capturing the beauty of the structures, while listening to the slow creaking spin of the blades in the light summer breeze.

  • "Command" - Saaremaa Island, Estonia

    "Command" - Saaremaa Island, Estonia

    The former “boss residence” of a Soviet-era collective farm or kolkhoz’s is seen falling into disrepair. Compared to many other countries, Estonia served as a poster child for the collective farming concept during the Soviet occupation. Today, the Baltic countryside is dotted with remains of derelict farming structures that are slowly being consumed by the earth. Truly sights that offer a unique perspective of history through the lens of one’s camera.

  • "Walls" - Tallinn, Estonia

    "Walls" - Tallinn, Estonia

    The Estonia capital city of Tallinn is world renowned for its walls. Starting in 1265 with the construction of the first five-meter-high Wall of Margaret, the old city slowly became encircled by walls, towers, and gates. Sixteen metres high, three metres thick, over four kilometres long and “featuring” 46 defence towers, by the 16th century the walls of Tallinn had evolved into one of the strongest fortresses in all of Europe. Modern times make for leisurely strolls through flower gardens and spinning up spiral staircases that take you to time in history where Rapunzel would have felt at home.

  • "Culinary" - Riga, Latvia

    "Culinary" - Riga, Latvia

    Housed in five recycled WW1 German Zeppelin hangers, Riga’s Central Market is the largest in Europe. Each pavilion plays host to a specific section of a modern supermarket. The “isle” in this image features a wide array of almost every slaughtered protein type imaginable – including pounds of raw salmon eggs! Added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1998, these five hangers make up the majority of the nine Zeppelin hangers left in the world.

  • "Medieval" - Saaremaa Island, Estonia

    "Medieval" - Saaremaa Island, Estonia

    Modern medieval men are seen vying for trout under the bastion of the Kuressaare Castle. Originally constructed by Teutonic Knights in the 1390’s, the castle is one of the best preserved medieval structures in the Baltics. Although I didn’t find my prince inside, I did have the pleasure of wandering through town during the Saaremaa Opera Festival. Held in a large opera tent attached to the castle, it was a treat to witness the Teatro di Milano troupe perform Verdi’s “Rigoletto” under the summer stars.

  • "Light" - Saaremaa Island, Estonia

    "Light" - Saaremaa Island, Estonia

    Perched on top a dangerous spit of rocks, the Sorve Lighthouse has cast a candle since 1646. Various structures have occupied this ground over time, with today’s version built in 1960. Maritime life is very prevalent in the Baltics. All three countries have a rich history of living close to the salt from the sea and harvesting its bounties. Unfortunately, the sea has also provided the strategic importance that has drawn in occupiers over the past 800 years.

  • "Agrarian" - Saaremaa Island, Estonia

    "Agrarian" - Saaremaa Island, Estonia

    The intensity of agriculture was a pleasant surprise while touring the region. Nearly 97% of the land in Estonia is considered arable. Although these field poppies grow wild and serve no consumption purpose; they certainly make for a lovely border around the actual crops that blanket the rich and colorful countryside.

  • "Gothic" - Vilnius, Lithuania

    "Gothic" - Vilnius, Lithuania

    Classic Gothic architecture makes St Anne’s Church a stunning façade to enjoy on a summer’s afternoon in the Lithuanian capital city. Upon witnessing the structure, legend states that Napoleon suggested he take it back to Paris in the palm of his hand. Thankfully, he returned home “empty handed” and left this masterpiece intact!

  • "Play" - Kuldiga, Latvia

    "Play" - Kuldiga, Latvia

    As I explore this little rock we live on, I find that the sight of children make my heart swell with hope. Caught mid-flight in his scurry across the fountains, this young lad and his playmate were having the time of their lives. May their lives be free of foreign occupation and may they have the opportunity to one day play “Pokemon Go”….. if they are so inclined 

  • "Protectors" - Saaremaa Island, Estonia

    "Protectors" - Saaremaa Island, Estonia

    Due to the sensitive nature of the shoreline areas in Estonia, Highland cattle are used to munch down the reeds and grasses overgrown along coastal landscapes. This natural mowing process facilitates the regeneration of seaside meadows, in turn providing habitat for endangered bird species and the natterjack toad. The sight of these bovines quickly took me back to my childhood days spent growing up on a cattle farm. The phrase “cow-boss” transcends language barriers and I quickly found myself scratching the head of this beast while feeding it a crusty bread bun treat her owner had provided to “the crazy Canadian lady that wanted to pet a cow!"

  • "Erode" - Karosta, Latvia

    "Erode" - Karosta, Latvia

    The Baltic Sea is a strategic treasure for regime’s seeking to occupy the region. Through the ages, trade bound to exotic locales such as Constantinople or modern day St. Petersburg has passed by these shorelines. Due to the man-made port of Karosta not being icebound in winter, navel fleets appreciated the flexibility it provided for their military operations. The ruins in this image were constructed at the end of the 1800’s by the Russian Tsarist regime of Alexander III in hopes of keeping the German Kaiser at bay. Modern day finds the fortifications in varying degrees a decay as the sea slowly consumes the ageing bastions.

  • "1941" - Rumbula Forest, Latvia (One in a set of three)

    "1941" - Rumbula Forest, Latvia (One in a set of three)

    The Rumbula forest witnessed two days in 1941 where over 27,000 Jews and “misfits” were shot by the Nazi regime and its sympathisers. As the list indicates, entire families were wiped out using the ruthless “Jeckeln” method of execution. Today, a solitary walk up through the forest leads to a heart-wrenching clearing in the woods outside of the Latvian capital city of Riga. The lone weathered teddy bear serves as a reminder to the limitless brutality the Nazi regime inflicted on innocent mortal humans. Never to be forgotten.

  • "1941" - Rumbula Forest, Latvia (Two in a set of three)

    "1941" - Rumbula Forest, Latvia (Two in a set of three)

    The Rumbula forest witnessed two days in 1941 where over 27,000 Jews and “misfits” were shot by the Nazi regime and its sympathisers. As the list indicates, entire families were wiped out using the ruthless “Jeckeln” method of execution. Today, a solitary walk up through the forest leads to a heart-wrenching clearing in the woods outside of the Latvian capital city of Riga. The lone weathered teddy bear serves as a reminder to the limitless brutality the Nazi regime inflicted on innocent mortal humans. Never to be forgotten.

  • "1941" - Rumbula Forest, Latvia (Three in a set of three)

    "1941" - Rumbula Forest, Latvia (Three in a set of three)

    The Rumbula forest witnessed two days in 1941 where over 27,000 Jews and “misfits” were shot by the Nazi regime and its sympathisers. As the list indicates, entire families were wiped out using the ruthless “Jeckeln” method of execution. Today, a solitary walk up through the forest leads to a heart-wrenching clearing in the woods outside of the Latvian capital city of Riga. The lone weathered teddy bear serves as a reminder to the limitless brutality the Nazi regime inflicted on innocent mortal humans. Never to be forgotten.

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    "1941" - Rumbula Forest, Latvia (One in a set of three)
    "1941" - Rumbula Forest, Latvia (Two in a set of three)
    "1941" - Rumbula Forest, Latvia (Three in a set of three)