Iran
"Out beyond the fields of wrong doing and the fields of right doing
there is another field - I'll meet you there."
11th century Persian Poet
My heart skipped a beat as I glanced up from the Turkmenistan Passport Control window through the chain link fence and read in English "Welcome to the Islamic Republic of Iran". It was a beautiful sunny day at the Iranian Bajgiran border station located high on a mountain pass just south of Ashkhabad, the capital of Turkmeninstan.
I was about to cross into a country that I have viewed with a certain level of trepidation in for most of my life. I remember 1979: the storming of the US Embassy, flags burning, hostages, a menacing demonic looking man calling himself an Allahtoli shouting hate into the tv screen that was so foreign to anything I had ever seen. Bloodcurdling, unnerving and terrifying images beamed out to the world from seemingly another planet.
Thirty years has now passed since those fateful days of the Revolution in Iran. During that time I have had the good fortune to travel abroad into many different ethnic, cultural and religious experiences that have forever changed my perspective of life in "The West". My journeys usually begin with reading and much research into my next adventure - for although I am an enthusiastic "intrepid" traveller - foolhardy decisions I try to avoid. When I saw this trip schedule I knew that this would be the chance of a lifetime to visit a country that has intrigued me for years.
Meanwhile back at the border - Through the welcome gate we fumbled along clad in our conspicuous tourist version of a hejab - modified scarves passing as veils and "butt covering garb". Within 20 minutes the deafening kerplunk of the stamp plunging onto my passport was complete. I gathered my backpack and started to head towards the exit when a man began speaking in loud Farsi- pointing at me and waving his arms at the baggage x-ray machine. I stopped in my tracks, my heart leaping into my throat. Another man stepped in front of me and demanded "Where are you from?" "Canada," I replied, my eyes wide trying to appear friendly and somewhat meek. "Tourist?" he asked. "Yes." His face then opened up into a broad smile and while placing his right hand on his heart, he bowed slightly as he waved me past the machine and in a loud, very proud voice announced "Welcome to Iran, I hope you enjoy my country."
And so it begins. The following time spent in this bizarre land of contradictions has provided so many accounts of everyday Iranian citizens reaching out to touch, talk and inquire about our small group. Western visitors are still very rare in the former Persian empire. Between the wars, sanctions, misguided media and certainly misunderstood leadership, Iran has not provided a stellar welcoming committee for Westerners.
That trend though appears to be slowly changing. Our group toured through three cities: Mashhad, Esfahan & Tehran - all very different but with a common denominator being the people.
A typical encounter whether at a museum, fruit stand, walking down the street or in a cafe unfolds as follows:
1. Eye contact - what an extremely powerful tool when you are running around in a modified bed sheet or "under the hood". The dress restrictions for females are slowly relaxing - many Iranian women when they are not at a holy site have the art of head scarf balancing down to a fine science. To be very frank - it stunk having to wear the Chador - the modified bed sheet (which was required at the Holy Shrine in Moshhad). After that experience the head accessory was not so bad, but there were no tears on the Turkish border when we "retired" our gear.
2. "Hello - where are you from?
3. "How do you like my country?
4. "Do you think we are terrorists?"
The first time I heard number four I almost fell over. The young lady asking was a university student who blurted the question out so earnestly it took me completely by surprise. By the third time I had heard this question asked I started to really feel hollow inside. How did we get here? We all have our own perception and opinion on historical events - I will save the soapbox and only wish that the poetry I quoted at the beginning of this tale perhaps be used in how we shape our future.
This Silk Route journey has been an incredible lesson in history. Not only has the physical distance covered been vast - just over 11,500km; the characters and their legacies encountered along the way is like stepping back to the very time they existed in. The individuals - Alexander the Great, Jenghiz Khan, Timur.... The dynasties & empires - Babylon, Chou, Rome, Mongols, Ottomans -extraordinary each step of the way. It therefore was very appropriate to finish off in the former Persian Empire and to visit many monuments that have managed to be left intact through the ravages of time.
I encourage you to check out my photos online. There are too many stories to share and a picture really does speak a thousand words. The sheer class and elegance of the Persian architecture stands heads and tails above anything else remaining from the ancient world. The only blatant exception to "class" was our visit to Khomeni's tomb. The three of our group that ventured out past the Tehran city limits on the Metro to see the "shrine" were beyond flabbergasted to see this dreadful mess that has been under construction for almost 20 years - discussions with current and former Iranians lead you to truly wonder what the Revolutions leader's place in history will end up being.
Most chilling experience - no question - was seeing the former US Embassy in Tehran. There is something that takes your breath away when you see a structure still standing like it has been in a time machine. The images from 79 flashback in a moment - the building and grounds appearing exactly the same - right down to where the main fence was finally breached as the angry mobs poured over it and violated the ultimate sanctuary that diplomacy stands to protect at all costs. And high overhead peeking through that very gap in the fence flies the colors of the Islamic Republic of Iran.
Ironic that out of all the places that I ventured to on this exotic journey, I would return to Iran in a moment’s notice - it truly has touched my heart in a way I never imagined possible. I have never encountered citizens of any country that are so accommodating, inquisitive and above all else as kind and generous as the Iranians are.
May we one day find that "other" field between right and wrong.
Peace.
Read Morethere is another field - I'll meet you there."
11th century Persian Poet
My heart skipped a beat as I glanced up from the Turkmenistan Passport Control window through the chain link fence and read in English "Welcome to the Islamic Republic of Iran". It was a beautiful sunny day at the Iranian Bajgiran border station located high on a mountain pass just south of Ashkhabad, the capital of Turkmeninstan.
I was about to cross into a country that I have viewed with a certain level of trepidation in for most of my life. I remember 1979: the storming of the US Embassy, flags burning, hostages, a menacing demonic looking man calling himself an Allahtoli shouting hate into the tv screen that was so foreign to anything I had ever seen. Bloodcurdling, unnerving and terrifying images beamed out to the world from seemingly another planet.
Thirty years has now passed since those fateful days of the Revolution in Iran. During that time I have had the good fortune to travel abroad into many different ethnic, cultural and religious experiences that have forever changed my perspective of life in "The West". My journeys usually begin with reading and much research into my next adventure - for although I am an enthusiastic "intrepid" traveller - foolhardy decisions I try to avoid. When I saw this trip schedule I knew that this would be the chance of a lifetime to visit a country that has intrigued me for years.
Meanwhile back at the border - Through the welcome gate we fumbled along clad in our conspicuous tourist version of a hejab - modified scarves passing as veils and "butt covering garb". Within 20 minutes the deafening kerplunk of the stamp plunging onto my passport was complete. I gathered my backpack and started to head towards the exit when a man began speaking in loud Farsi- pointing at me and waving his arms at the baggage x-ray machine. I stopped in my tracks, my heart leaping into my throat. Another man stepped in front of me and demanded "Where are you from?" "Canada," I replied, my eyes wide trying to appear friendly and somewhat meek. "Tourist?" he asked. "Yes." His face then opened up into a broad smile and while placing his right hand on his heart, he bowed slightly as he waved me past the machine and in a loud, very proud voice announced "Welcome to Iran, I hope you enjoy my country."
And so it begins. The following time spent in this bizarre land of contradictions has provided so many accounts of everyday Iranian citizens reaching out to touch, talk and inquire about our small group. Western visitors are still very rare in the former Persian empire. Between the wars, sanctions, misguided media and certainly misunderstood leadership, Iran has not provided a stellar welcoming committee for Westerners.
That trend though appears to be slowly changing. Our group toured through three cities: Mashhad, Esfahan & Tehran - all very different but with a common denominator being the people.
A typical encounter whether at a museum, fruit stand, walking down the street or in a cafe unfolds as follows:
1. Eye contact - what an extremely powerful tool when you are running around in a modified bed sheet or "under the hood". The dress restrictions for females are slowly relaxing - many Iranian women when they are not at a holy site have the art of head scarf balancing down to a fine science. To be very frank - it stunk having to wear the Chador - the modified bed sheet (which was required at the Holy Shrine in Moshhad). After that experience the head accessory was not so bad, but there were no tears on the Turkish border when we "retired" our gear.
2. "Hello - where are you from?
3. "How do you like my country?
4. "Do you think we are terrorists?"
The first time I heard number four I almost fell over. The young lady asking was a university student who blurted the question out so earnestly it took me completely by surprise. By the third time I had heard this question asked I started to really feel hollow inside. How did we get here? We all have our own perception and opinion on historical events - I will save the soapbox and only wish that the poetry I quoted at the beginning of this tale perhaps be used in how we shape our future.
This Silk Route journey has been an incredible lesson in history. Not only has the physical distance covered been vast - just over 11,500km; the characters and their legacies encountered along the way is like stepping back to the very time they existed in. The individuals - Alexander the Great, Jenghiz Khan, Timur.... The dynasties & empires - Babylon, Chou, Rome, Mongols, Ottomans -extraordinary each step of the way. It therefore was very appropriate to finish off in the former Persian Empire and to visit many monuments that have managed to be left intact through the ravages of time.
I encourage you to check out my photos online. There are too many stories to share and a picture really does speak a thousand words. The sheer class and elegance of the Persian architecture stands heads and tails above anything else remaining from the ancient world. The only blatant exception to "class" was our visit to Khomeni's tomb. The three of our group that ventured out past the Tehran city limits on the Metro to see the "shrine" were beyond flabbergasted to see this dreadful mess that has been under construction for almost 20 years - discussions with current and former Iranians lead you to truly wonder what the Revolutions leader's place in history will end up being.
Most chilling experience - no question - was seeing the former US Embassy in Tehran. There is something that takes your breath away when you see a structure still standing like it has been in a time machine. The images from 79 flashback in a moment - the building and grounds appearing exactly the same - right down to where the main fence was finally breached as the angry mobs poured over it and violated the ultimate sanctuary that diplomacy stands to protect at all costs. And high overhead peeking through that very gap in the fence flies the colors of the Islamic Republic of Iran.
Ironic that out of all the places that I ventured to on this exotic journey, I would return to Iran in a moment’s notice - it truly has touched my heart in a way I never imagined possible. I have never encountered citizens of any country that are so accommodating, inquisitive and above all else as kind and generous as the Iranians are.
May we one day find that "other" field between right and wrong.
Peace.
